And then I weld it onto the rollbar: (yes, yes, kubota does not recommend welding on the rops because it might weaken it. I'll take my chances)
Then after 5 hours of wiring, we actually have lites:
And the finished product is ready. Lites that are protected
from tree limbs, switched by relays, and powered by a big
alternator. With all the lights on, and a few rpm's over idle,
the system still puts out 13.6 volts. Not bad with a 35 amp load!
The 50 Amp breakaway connectors are used on the 10 Awg power feed to
the ROPS, so that if you need to remove the ROPS for maintenance you can
easily disconnect the wires. For example, if you need to work on the
fuel tank, you have to remove the ROPS to get the rear panels off.
Where did I get power? I put eyelets on the end of the 10 Awg wire, and connected the red one to the starter (i.e. where the red battery cable connects) with a 30 Amp fuse immediately afterward, and connected the black one to the bolt where the black battery cable bolts onto the frame. I prefer a ground wire over trying to tap into the frame in a remote location. Then routed the wires inside the wire loom under the tractor and up under the seat where it then comes out to a breakaway connector just before the ROPS.
The end.